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I've restrung a few T2 bodies, but I only ever used the regular elastic T1 method - they look fine to me. I wouldn't know where to start using the proper rubber bands, do you buy them in kits?
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I previously used elastic to restring a couple T2 bodies, but...
In my collection of parts, I had all the components from various disassembled T2 bodies, including the 2-piece metal rig for the shoulder, the plastic clip and metal "C" ring for the hip, and extra rubber bands. I figured : how hard could this be?
I had already mastered swapping out T2 legs by pulling out the rubber band to the point where I could slip a forked spacer into the hole to unhook the previous leg, and hold it long enough to hook in a new leg, so the only trick was to feed a new rubber band through the body from a reattached arm. A couple of my rubber bands turned out to be broken, and one 35+ year-old band broke during one attempt, but the trick I found was to employ some of my surgical hemostats to feed the rubber bands through the body, where they could be hooked. Tricky, but it appeared I had the right tools for the job. The most difficult part of the process turns out to be rehooking the legs which, as I said, is the one thing I had already figured out long ago.
After that first successful attempt, I ended up using ALL my loose minty T2 spare limbs (also swapping out all the cracked feet and chewed-up hands), and then kept going with thighs (awaiting knee pins) until I ran out of original Mego rubber bands. If I had enough connecting shoulder/hip armatures, I'd disassemble and rehook all the T2 bodies I repaired earlier with elastic.Last edited by SentientApe; Aug 16, '14, 9:05 AM.Comment
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[QUOTE=SentientApe;1135100]Here is the latest eBay "pile of junk" for which most would probably say I paid too much. My sincerest apologies to whomever I may have outbid, but my high bid sat on this auction for at least 24 hours, and no one seemed to see the same intrinsic value as I --
I was able to pair-up many of the random pieces with loose items in my "future project parts" pile (i.e., new heads with various earlier restrung bodies; partial bodies requiring multiple T1 restrings & T2 part swaps; new clothing on existing bodies) to come up with ALL of the following. Some of the newly-mated T2 bodies are awaiting knee pins (already en route). After all that, I ended up with an excess of items (including a few heads) for future projects. Here are the "complete" and "waiting knee repin" bodies at this point --
Do you have any tips for the knee replacement? I got some knee pins from CTV and installed a set, the knee is attached but very loose. How do you tightened it up?Comment
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I know I have seen loose "correct" T2 rubber bands available on eBay, but cannot now recall if they are also sold by Dr. Mego and/or CTVT... I have a feeling most people already know the answer to that, but I am going to look anyway, especially considering that NOW I need some knee pins.
Similarly (i.e., others surely know the answer), I don't know if the other connector pieces are available as replacement sets. All of the stuff I used was from salvaged incomplete figures.Comment
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Are you sure you have snapped that knee pin ALL THE WAY into place? I had the same wobbly problem, but then I applied extra force, only to discover that the knee pin halves actually had a little further to go until -- SNAP -- the connection was secure. I actually used a pair of antique pliers that allowed me to place pressure ONLY on the opposite ends of the knee pins, but I was certain that I was going to break it -- UNTIL IT WORKED.
WARNING -- I am telling you what I did, and it worked for me on multiple knee re-pins. But I am NOT responsible for any damage you do in the event that your results differ from mine. Good luck.Comment
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And I have finally given up looking for a loose AHI body for that head. At the moment, it rests in the display box with the other two (complete) Apemen, but I have recently been considering popping it onto a Mego T2 body and just making some unique custom figure out of it. I have one specific idea in mind, but revelation of that has to wait until later...Originally Posted by Confessional
^^ The *gold* in that otherwise dicey lot is the variant yellow Tong head.Comment
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As I mentioned, I need to get some more knee pins, so I can pay more attention the next time around to see if there is more wisdom I can share. I sought out the pliers because the curvature of the leg prevented me from finding an optimal surface against which I could apply the needed force.Comment
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Uh-oh.... I'm going to have to dig. They are certainly in my WWII communications gear, but I don't now recollect exactly which pair I used. I am sure a modern pair of channel-lock pliers would work, as long as they have the reach (AROUND the knee) to create direct in-line pressure. You want to avoid and angular force. I went to the antiques because they often have smooth faces, with etched-in friction lines, while modern tools typically have large molded teeth. If you use a modern equivalent, I would strongly advise employing felt pads or even layered-up cardboard to avoid ripping apart the plastic.Comment
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