Restringing a CTVT fatman body.

[dr_cyclops]

Hey dr_cyclops,
Where did you find the oval rings???
I have a friend who wants me to do that restringing of yours.
Thanks,
Barrett

The "key-rings" I use are called split rings. I purchase here locally at Shipwreck Beads. They have a website store.
Item: F1213-S split ring silver 9mm, 50 of the round, $2.25
Item: 35F1212-S split ring 10mm oval silver, 25 of the oval $2.45

[SeattleEd]

The "key-rings" I use are called split rings. I purchase here locally at Shipwreck Beads. They have a website store.
Item: F1213-S split ring silver 9mm, 50 of the round, $2.25
Item: 35F1212-S split ring 10mm oval silver, 25 of the oval $2.45

Love Shipwreck Beads. Always stop there when we go to Portland. That's where I get supplies to make jewelry for my daughters.

[BATMAN89]

The "key-rings" I use are called split rings. I purchase here locally at Shipwreck Beads. They have a website store.
Item: F1213-S split ring silver 9mm, 50 of the round, $2.25
Item: 35F1212-S split ring 10mm oval silver, 25 of the oval $2.45

Thank you!

[mego]

Does it bother anyone here that every single CTVT body needs to be restrung?
The added cost of metal rings and elastic, along with the time it takes to monkey with these things make them seem rather expensive for the poor quality item that they are. I just can't figure out why a basic item like an action figure body that was perfected in the 1970's is too difficult for this company to make correctly. I can't help but feel like CTVT is ripping us off and we're all giving them a free pass on this. What other toy company produces a product that needs to be repaired straight out of the box (and in the case of the KISS figures, costs $5-15 more than most other figures).
I like the new options that CTVT is giving us, but as paying customers, we should demand better.
Clearly, this is a problem that CAN be fixed. Other companies put out bodies that work and cost the same (or less). CTVT / Figures Toy Company just doesn't seem to care. They're happy sticking their customers with a crappy product. I found this out the hard way.
If they were on the level, they'd stop selling the inferior bodies and replace them with a quality product.
Every one of us deserves better than this.

[dr_cyclops]

Tools and Supplies:
Two pair of Needle-Nose Plyers.
Two pair of scissors, 1 large dull and 1 very sharp.
Split Rings, round and oval.
Fabric covered elastic cord.
Hobby knife.
Round toothpicks.
Tips:
Work in a clean clear area. Round split rings are hard to attach to shoulder mount, and tend to fly when they pop off the needle nose plyers. Hobby knife is for removing any mold flashing to improve body or movement. Large dull scissors are to enlarge hip pin hole just enough to allow swivel room. Very sharp scissors are to trim fabric cord end frays for inserting through oval split rings.
Photos coming soon.

[JediJaida]

This should be interesting.

Since DocMego's female body has a lot of the same characteristics as the CTVT male body, especially in the arms and legs, this restringing method could also be used for one of them.

I really hate to kvetch about that, but that's the biggest issue with that body; it is strung waaaay too tight! And the hip pins are far too fragile. If they were made of flesh colored silicone rubber, they'd be somewhat stronger.

[dr_cyclops]

Since DocMego's female body has a lot of the same characteristics as the CTVT male body, especially in the arms and legs, this restringing method could also be used for one of them.

I may add illos and photos for restringing DrMego female body soon, as well as developments in restringing a CTVT teen body. Still working on that CTVT female restringing. Dr. Frankenstein had an easier time bringing the dead back to life.* lol
*That was a slam on the CTVT female bodies, in case someone missed it.

[dr_cyclops]

The following photo guide is for restringing a CTVT 8 inch male body. Note that round toothpicks have been added to tools and supplies.

Photo #01: The cut. I used to salvage the hooks and bands, but after a few restrings, I threw them away.

Photo #02: The pieces. Arm hooks most often are the easiest to remove, but those hip pin rings are challenging.

Photo #03: The arm hook. Most can be removed with a simple turning to release. Some have come with the hook bent around the shoulder mount. In this event, you will be happy to have a second pair of needle-nose plyers handy.

[dr_cyclops]

Photo #04: The hip pin removal. I've tried cutting the rubber band enough to allow it to pass through the hip pin hole with no success. Using two needle-nose plyers grab the band hook on both sides of the band and pull to release band.

Photo #05: More hip pin removal. Once the rubber band is removed, the metal ring needs to be re-shaped to pass through the hip pin hole. In this photo, the hook is bent back down.

Photo #05A: More hip pin removal. The metal ring can also be straighten to allow passage through the hip pin hole.

[dr_cyclops]

Photo #06: The gold. These are the parts you will need in unbroken condition.

Photo #07: The garbage. These are the pieces for the trash.

Photo #08: Round ring and toothpick. Getting the needle-nose plyer tips on the ring correctly is difficult. I start by inserting a toothpick to hold the round ring open.

[dr_cyclops]

Photo #09: Round ring, toothpick and plyers. Insert needle-nose plyers so that they grab the ring on the bottom about an 1/8th inch from the ring end. Remove toothpick.

Photo #10: Arm ring attachment. With an 1/8th inch from the bottom ring end, hold plyers tightly. Using the outside of the shoulder mount for resistance to the rest of the ring, push down until bottom 1/8th ring end fits into shoulder mount hole. (This is more difficult than it sounds. With so much pressure, the ring can pop off from the plyers or shoulder mount hole. Safty glasses are recommended for this step.) Once the ring end is in the hole, carefully remove plyers and use them to turn the ring until it is fully attached.

Photo #11: Opening the hip pin hole. The hip pin hole needs to be widened on the inside, to allow room for swivel movement. Depending on how sharp your tool (scissors, hobby knife, etc.) will determine how much effort this may take. Try not to widen the outside of the hip pin hole. The object here, is to enlarge the inside.

[dr_cyclops]

Photo #12: Hip pin small oval split-ring insertion. My last three restringings, I've used SeattleEd's suggestion of inserting the hook opening facing down. No difference in preformance. Long term durability is yet to be determined. Strange as it is, the width of this oval split-ring has yet to break the plastic hook off a CTVT hip pin that I didn't suspect of prior damage.

Photo #13: Ready to string.

Photo #14: Strung. I use a thick fabric covered elastic cord, purchased at Joann Fabrics. I use the neck hole to start and end with the tie-off. Alway run cord between the legs, above the pelvic post. Take care to insert cord through rings in the direction of stringing. Changes in direction will mess up alignment of limbs.

[dr_cyclops]

Photo #15: Pulled. Pull the cord tight and check body limbs for movement and alignment.

Photo #16: Tie-off. Once satisfied with stringing, tie off with knot of your choice. Cut off cord ends and release. I have yet to have one come out too tight.

Photo #17. Done. If everything went well, you should have a CTVT 8in. male body that will stand straight and preform well. If not, cut cord and try again.

[pmwasson]

This is a great guide. I'll have to try it on some of my CTVT bodies as I tend not to use them and they just pile up.

[dr_cyclops]

I don't know how many CTVT bodies and parts you have, but you may want to take any and all Mego style bodies and parts to Mego-Eat. Customizers always need more parts. More pieces, more complete usable bodies. And 'trading power plus'.