Okay, we've got the eye sockets, the nose, now we need the mouth. As you've probably noticed, your moth slightly bulges outward from the rest of the face in what I call the "oral mound." To make this, simply make a small disc of clay (by flattening a ball) about as big as shown in (fig. Q.1 and Q.2). Place this just below the nose and smooth the seams. In profile it should bulge out slightly (fig. Q.3). To make the upper lip (at least of a closed mouth), we don't sculpt it so much as we cut it away. Trace the line of the upper lip in the mound using your pointer (fig. Q.4), and then with your small X-acto blade, on a 45° angle, cut away the upper lip. To get an idea of how deep to cut, the innermost end of the upper lip should line up approximately with the back edge of the nostril, somewhat exaggerated in (fig. Q.5). Smooth the upper lip with the R-stylus and microspatula (fig. Q.6).
Now use your small smoother or microspatula and drag down on the clay beneath the upper lip, so that the clay is recessed beneath the upper lip and bulges up at the chin (fig. Q.7). This excess can be removed later if need be. Now add a small rope beneath the upper lip for the lower lip (fig. Q.8). It should not be as long as the upper lip, otherwise your head will look like Edward G. Robinson ("Don't shoot me Mugsy, I'm you're pal, Mugsy, you're pal! Yeah...") Once you've laid the lower lip in and smoothed it with your R-stylus, or even a small application of alcohol, use the BP-stylus to press in the cleft of the upper lip. You may also add one to the chin if you'd like (fig. Q.9). And now the mouth is done!
Onto the cheeks... roll out a couple of small ropes of clay for the smile lines of the cheeks, and flatten them out so that they taper along one of the edges. Lay these on either side of the mouth with the uppermost parts on either side and slightly above the nostrils. Roll smooth with your roller, finger and microspatula (fig. R). Use the R-stylus to define the inner edge of the smile lines.
