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Any interest in a repro Aquaman vs The Great White Shark set?
My heart jumped a little when I saw that Shark disassembled. I would love to support this project, simply because you are obviously very brave and dedicated. I admire your commitment to quality, but I'd only be able to afford a cheapo option. I wish you'd reconsider the vac-form method, because I'd love a kit to work on, that buyers could customize and make as accurate as they please.
Hey! Where's the waiter with the water for my daughter?
Here's the latest update from my mold maker friend:
"OK, as you can see I have taken the AquaShark Apart here is a brief report, I am
pressed for time so I will be BRIEF.
****
* Shark has been disassembled previously, as smaller guide-pins broken and glued
over.
* Glue is basis for skin scarring, possible polyvinyl type like PVC or other
'home' glue that is solvent based with a plastic base/carrier.
* Minor corrosion in battery compartment.
* Motor seems to be OK, have not disassembled further, or applied power to.
* No, external switch, must have put in battery and then just played with?
* Minimum of 7 molds needed. Possibly cannot do prop, dunno yet.
* Prop and prop gear are only pressed on.
* May want to see if we can just make this look like the real deal but not have
to worry about all the internal pin/slot work and motor?
-- Will look and move like real thing. Just be molded as a rotocast body that
does not break apart with 3 screws and associated pins/slots?
-----
Unsure about what is needed to restore skin for you yet. May be quick and easy,
or a real booger. I'll test to see how deep or shallow the glue melting is into
the surface."
Wow. This is certainly becoming more interesting.
As long as the museum has your permisson, I'd really like to suggest letting an Admin post that breakdown pic on the official Shark page here at the museum.
Here's the latest update from my mold maker friend:
"OK, as you can see I have taken the AquaShark Apart here is a brief report, I am
pressed for time so I will be BRIEF.
****
* Shark has been disassembled previously, as smaller guide-pins broken and glued
over.
* Glue is basis for skin scarring, possible polyvinyl type like PVC or other
'home' glue that is solvent based with a plastic base/carrier.
* Minor corrosion in battery compartment.
* Motor seems to be OK, have not disassembled further, or applied power to.
* No, external switch, must have put in battery and then just played with?
* Minimum of 7 molds needed. Possibly cannot do prop, dunno yet.
* Prop and prop gear are only pressed on.
* May want to see if we can just make this look like the real deal but not have
to worry about all the internal pin/slot work and motor?
-- Will look and move like real thing. Just be molded as a rotocast body that
does not break apart with 3 screws and associated pins/slots?
-----
Unsure about what is needed to restore skin for you yet. May be quick and easy,
or a real booger. I'll test to see how deep or shallow the glue melting is into
the surface."
My heart jumped a little when I saw that Shark disassembled. I would love to support this project, simply because you are obviously very brave and dedicated. I admire your commitment to quality, but I'd only be able to afford a cheapo option. I wish you'd reconsider the vac-form method, because I'd love a kit to work on, that buyers could customize and make as accurate as they please.
That's not a bad idea for folks who are on a tight budget. I have forwarded this idea on to my mold makin' buddy to see what he has to say about the versions listed below and the feasibility of having two versions of the shark both as completed display models and as kits that could be purchased for a lesser price point:
1. Deluxe version that is "showroom ready". (virtually indistinguishable from an original model.....perhaps a running model and/or simply a static display piece....not sure yet.)
2. Deluxe version as a kit that could be less expensive for those that want the ultimate but on a bit of a budget.....this requires skills to complete that a lot of folks on here seem to possess.
3. Economy version that is "showroom ready". (one solid body, not two halves as the original has, with moveable head and no screws on the one side).
4. Economy version as a kit that again could be less expensive for those that have the skill to finish it themselves and are not concerned about their shark being almost indistinguishable from an original model (i.e. no screws on one side and a solid body rather than the two halves with the moveable upper jaw and a static model)
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