de-greying - has anyone ever tried?

[Mego Magyar]

I recently read in another post that the "zombie" effect is caused by bacteria and that using Plastidip negate the affects of the bacteria, my question is if batceria is the cause has anyone ever tried soaking a zombie head in something like Purell? It's made to kill bacteria.

Just a thought.

[Earth 2 Chris]

I did it in my early years here. I have to say the results weren't very noticeable, despite several redippings. And what little good it did soon faded away. I did this to a zombie-fied Luke Duke and Mr. Fantastic head.

In my estimation, it's not worth the trouble. But your mileage may vary.

Chris

[Godzilla]

I've had very little luck, but I have only tried it with 12 inch heads (Buck and Trek). I had always assumed it was just me.

[Megospidey]

there was something else - an automobile product - that some people used and said worked pretty well for de-graying. Something that was used to clean tires, but I can't remember what it was.
Maybe Black Magic's "Tire Wet"?

[Megospidey]

Here it is... http://www.custommego.com/ Go to "tips and tricks" and then to "degraying heads" A whole tutorial on it.

apparently, you have to use BOTH Tire wet and Plasti-dip combined.

[Blue Meanie]

Here it is... http://www.custommego.com/ Go to "tips and tricks" and then to "degraying heads" A whole tutorial on it.

apparently, you have to use BOTH Tire wet and Plasti-dip combined.

I thought that was a given in the whole De-gaying process. Not only does the tire wet help in the process but it also keeps the plasti dip from sticking to the head and possibly take off any paint on the face and hair. I've yet to have a bad experience with the process. the only head that has the hardest time, in my experience, is the Human Torch Head if it completely zombified. Also, when doing the de-graying...it doesn't work with only one dip. When you dip you should basically leave the head out for about 12 - 24 hours to dry and then peel the plasti off of the head. Use Red Plasti. If possible do it in the dryest conditions possible. Humidity tends to lessen the affect of the process. Just a few tips for those having problems.

[SeattleEd]

I too had luck with the red plasti/tire wet combo procedure and have done it in stages for a week straight. Meaning a dip once a day for a week. It did work but only temporarily as my once restored CHIPS Ponch head returned back to gray. Never exposed it to the sun and it now sits on a shelf in my garage.

[Nostalgiabuff]

i have not tried it, mostly because I have always heard the heads go zombie again so I figure why waste my time

[dr_cyclops]

What are the draw backs to totally repainting the head? I remember someone choosing this, over attempts of 'de-graying'.

[ctc]

>What are the draw backs to totally repainting the head? I remember someone choosing this, over attempts of 'de-graying'.

I've used automotive interior vinyl paint on grey heads, and it works pretty well. Seems to last longer than the plasti-dip method and since it soaks in, it's more durable than original Mego paint. Probelms are:

-the paint is extremely toxic in it's fluid state
-it dries quickly, gumming up your brush
-the choice in colours is limited, requiring some crafty mixing to match colours.

Don C.

[Hotfoot]

I attempted the Sharpie and Rubbing Alcohol method on Jon and Ponch. Some past posts on what I did.

Before

http://megomuseum.com/community/showthread.php?23763-I-tried-it!&highlight=ponch

http://megomuseum.com/community/showthread.php?23514-Zombie-John-and-Ponch-found&highlight=chips

After

http://megomuseum.com/community/showthread.php?23960-A-little-more-work-with-the-Sharpie&highlight=jon+ponch

[dr_cyclops]

I've used automotive interior vinyl paint on grey heads, and it works pretty well. Seems to last longer than the plasti-dip method and since it soaks in, it's more durable than original Mego paint. Probelms are:

-the paint is extremely toxic in it's fluid state
-it dries quickly, gumming up your brush
-the choice in colours is limited, requiring some crafty mixing to match colours.

Don C.

I was thinking of the using the automotive interior vinyl paint as a primer, and model acrylics as a finish. Would the acrylic bond with the primer? Would the model acrylic paint chip and flake off as the vinyl head is compressed and expands? Would filling the head with air-dry clay prevent chipping and flaking? Or is molding and casting the head in resin the superior choice?

[cjefferys]

I've always been wary of trying the plasti-dip method because it sounds like a huge PITA. The sharpie method sounds intriguing though, I might give it a shot.

[ctc]

>Would the acrylic bond with the primer?

Probably not. The vinyl paint soaks into the heads, so it doesn't change the texture of the plastic like a primer would, and it doesn't balance out the undercoat.

>Would the model acrylic paint chip and flake off as the vinyl head is compressed and expands?

Hmmmm.... it MIGHT; especially over time. Acrylics will rub off pretty easily, but even a light dusting of something like Testors varnish would help. If they're not gonna get handled very much it'd probably work just fine. I have plenty of vinyl models that haven't chipped or flaked, and I live in a place with horribly variable atmospheric conditions.

>is molding and casting the head in resin the superior choice?

If you're gonna do a lot of work on it, then casting a resin one is your best bet.

Don C.

[Earth 2 Chris]

I somehow missed the Sharpie method altogether. I may have to give that a shot. I have an extra Luke Duke head I can experiment with.

Chris