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Me too - I don't primer anything I'm painting unless it's a metal base. Sometimes I use solvent based enamel on resin casts, but with a clear satin topcoat they're fine.
Primers tend to remind me of that fake xmas tree spray-snow when applied.
I like micro-ground enamels like Floquil, but if you prefer acrylic they have a line called POLLY Scale. They spread fast though - it's a really liquid paint. I usually top coat with a satin clear Krylon, or I leave it uncoated. The Floquil enamels will have a rather shiny finish though. In some cases that's good - because it's kind of the same sheen as Trek head hair when it's new in the package, so if you're painting a resin fleshtone cast or repainting a vinyl head it's actually a bonus.
I don't prime, unless I have to fill in bubbles or repairs. A light coat of krylon or rustoleum. I use Games workshop paints and ceramcoat. Light coat of matte finish spray prime.
ok then.
I have tons of liquitex acrylic. I've used them so far to paint hands and heads but I've used a brush on sealer first (after too if I want a glossy finish)
this is my first foray into sculpting. I'm liking magic sculp so far...
another question: I made the mistake of going too small and delicate with some claws. probably should have glued them on after they hardened or used some kind of armature to support them. is there something I can use to strengthen the join? like elmers glue or something before I paint over? snapping them off and then drilling little holes and so on is more work than I want to do.
I like sandable auto primer. I use it on durned near everything. Use thin coats though. Liquitex is good, but fragile. I use Testors spray varnish for my stuff.
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