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"Pop Sculpture" Anybody read this customizing book?

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  • TrueDave
    Toy Maker
    • Jan 12, 2008
    • 2343

    #16
    Well, I just returned it to the library( Someone else has it on hold. ) I'll check it out again and read some of the chapters i skimmed . Maybe good notes and a few photocopies will be enough and I wont have to buy the book.
    I understood most of what i was reading. It is an advanced book. Ten years ago I would have been frustrated. ( If anybody needs any explaining I'll help if i can)
    I REALLY liked the pcitures of pieces as they were cut apart and gated for the molds. I never got the grasp of gating back in Foundry shop . Comparing it to plumbing helps a lot.
    I think my favorite part was designing and making joints for articulation.

    I did not see a ball and sock pop illustrated. ( Modern Star Wars and Joe heads) . I also didnt see anything about adding a plasticizer for making resin more flexible . I don't even know if thats possible.
    The figure and staue made as examples look much more complicated than anything i have planned so thats good.

    The Bad?
    Well for me: the equipment. Mainly an Air Compressor for a pressure pot and Air Brush. I moved out of my house with a studio a few months ago and in my new apartment I cant have loud shop tools. To be honest I sold my AIr Brushes off because they were more trouble than I wanted. I'll just work around using a pressure pot.
    I'm undecided about buying a wax sculpting pen. I've never used one. When we worked with modeling wax for Foundry w just used cheap Radio Shack soldering guns.
    Since hot Glue guns make me nervous. I'm not too sure about buying a wax heat pen.
    Besides the detail theyre getting I do at a larger size and use hydrospan to shrink the piece .
    The info on using wax sheets looked great. It makes drapery and hard edged details look easy.
    There were many details i wont forget. For example. in doing something symmetrical ( eyes) work on the left side first , then right, ( if youre right handed) is genius. We work better on our dominant sides so it's easier to match things up.
    Last edited by TrueDave; Dec 11, '11, 10:25 AM.

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    • thunderbolt
      Hi Ernie!!!
      • Feb 15, 2004
      • 34211

      #17
      Don't be nervous about hot glue guns, they are my best friend. http://megomuseum.com/community/showthread.php?t=68311
      You must try to generate happiness within yourself. If you aren't happy in one place, chances are you won't be happy anyplace. -Ernie Banks

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      • TrueDave
        Toy Maker
        • Jan 12, 2008
        • 2343

        #18
        I've checked it out from the library again and am working on my first project.
        In rereading the hinge and joint pages I see they do not explain the ball joint they use on the examples neck. How does it attach and allow room for movement?
        I picked up the clue that manufactured action figures have PVC hands so the acessories will fit. PVC has some give. I assume PVC is what's used to make the pop off heads on modern Star Wars and GI Joe 3 3/4 figures. That type of articulation isnt mentiond in the Pop Sculpture book.
        The book has great explination of how to make hinge joints , but I dont see how the pivot joints would stay in place. A resin pin in a resin hole wont stay together if posed. I understand the instructions are for a prototype but I'd like my figures to be functional toys.

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