Putty adhering to a vinyl head

[samurainoir]

Del let me use some of her two-part hobby putty at Mego Meet, and it really worked wonderfully on a resin head to add sculpted shape and even fine detail.

I've got a project I'd like to do with a china made hollow vinyl head, will this kind of putty/plumber's seal work on a vinyl head? I'm mostly concerned with how it will adhere.

[ctc]

Hmmmm....

That's a tricky one. I've done it, but it's kind of a two-step process. THe problem is the vynil is flexible, the putty isn't. Changes in temperature will cause expansion/contraction and loosen the bond. So will handling the parts. I use Tamiya epoxy putty for my sculpting: the fast dry stuff is best (it's softer) but the regular works too. Sculpt your stuff right on the head, but expect it to fall off. If/when it does, superglue it back on. That means you should design your mods like prosthetic appliances for actors; as separate pieces. Ultimately it's a LOT easier to modify a resin part.

Don C.

[thunderbolt]

I used it on my Two Face over a vinyl head and seems to be just fine. THe head is a little less flexable than most.

[The Bat]

Stay away from plumbers Putty, it's messy and it bleeds. I use use Games Workshop epoxy putty. But BK turned me onto "Magic Sculpt" and it is without a doubt THE BEST epoxy putty.

[babycyclops]

I'd use a putty like Green Stuff. I think it's the same stuff Games Workshop sells, as The Bat mentions. It's the one that comes in a strip with a blue side and a yellow side.

The reason is that Green stuff has a slightly more rubbery consistency, and is very adhesive, too. Like ctc says, a little super glue will encourage the putty to stay where you put it.

Some putties (like Milliput) have a hard, almost chalky consistency. This is great if you want to sand or drill it after it has cured. However, once cured, it is more prone to chipping.
Green stuff has a tiny bit more flex, even after it has cured, so I think it would work better for a vinyl head.

I've not tried Magic Sculpt, so can't comment on that one.

One problem I find with Green stuff is that it does not take sanding well, once cured. The rubbery consistency means that it sort of goes 'furry'.
I know sculptors that use a little vaseline on their sculpting tool when smoothing the surface, to help create a smooth surface. Talcum powder also works to stop putty sticking to tools.

One more tip for putty users: Milliput and Green stuff can actually be mixed together to make the ultimate putty. Mix each brand separately, then mix the two together, and what you get are the best properties of both.

[LonnieFisher]

If you pack a soft head with the epoxy and let it set your head won't be as flexible and the stuff added will stay on better. Or fill it with liquid resin and let it set. Magic sculpt works great on the original Mego heads!

[Bizarro Amy]

The stuff I brought was specifically, Mighty Putty, the stuff Billy Mays used to pitch on TV. I had bought a bunch of it to try at one point. I keep a little on hand, because it works for some of the repairs I've had to do on toys, and as a filler for gaps. It doesn't work great for detailed scuplts though. I took it to Mego Meet just in case people wanted to make little moderations to heads/bodies for the Kit-Bash, because it cures pretty quickly. For sculpting on vinyl heads, I prefer either make the alterations then casting, or using a resin cast and adding Magic Sculp onto that.

[Hflagman1]

I was wondering about this also infact I have some Magic Sculpt coming because I'm not finding a U-Man head for a custom I wanna do soon, so good info folks thank you.

[Confessional]

A professional sculptor turned me on to Apoxie Sculpt. You can also paint/layer with it and it comes in a great range of colors too!

http://www.avesstudio.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&product_id=28&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1

Great for bits/parts/mods to solid sculpts; bonds to vinyl among many other materials. If your vinyl head is soft, the head pack is a great suggestion in preparation, otherwise you may crack the sculpt when putting the head back on the body.

[dr_cyclops]

I avoid Plumber's heat catalist quick set epoxy putty. While sanding it outside/upwind, I expeirenced burning of the eyes nose and mouth from the sanding dust. So I'll never use it as a surface material. Structure filler only, well below the surface level.

[skullface]

I have used sculpy and set it with hot water rather than in an oven....with mixed results. .....I have also set it with a hair dryer.