best way to crack open a chest?

[livnxxxl]

How about using a dremel tool? That is providing you have access to one. I would use the cut off wheel in this case. These are great tools and I would highly suggest having one if you plan on doing any kind of customizing.

[LonnieFisher]

do it like the new ghostbusters mattel figure.

[Captain]

I've done a few light up figures now, and I'll tell you, its way easier to drill a hole through the chest, mount your light, and run the wires out the back. I tried an enclosed battery pack when I first tinkered with the idea, but once you get all the hardware in there, and all the elastics and such put back, not only isnt there much room, but every time you want to turn the turn the torso, or move the arms, the elastics and hooks will hit the battery pack and switch assemblies. I instead settled on putting the battery pack and switch assembly on the belt of the figure (as I did with Red Tornado and Mr. Freeze)..the cape hides everything. On Starman, I went with a larger battery pack to support the high intensity bulb I used for the cosmic/gravity rod assembly. In this case, even though the battery pack will still fit on the figure if I want it to, I made it seperate from the figure, and use a puch pull connector to join it to the figures wiring. that way, I can just unplug it when I dont want the light on.

On Iron Man, I dont think it would look too out of place to make some kind of belt pack.

another idea I've experimented with, but havent used yet, is fiber optics. This would work great for light up repulser beams in the gloves, or jets in the boots. I bought a goofy light up ornament at a dollar store that uses fiber optic cables. Essentially the cables are full of a bazillion small mirrors (not really, but I think it explains the process easier). If you mount them with one end of the cable mounted closely to the main light bulb, and then run the cables down the arms and or legs (externally...hidden in the costume) you can have the other end pop out of a glove or bbot bottom to simulate the effects previously mentioned.

So far, I've found a couple issues. One, the fiber optic light isnt very "big"-just a sort of pinpoint of light. Two, you need a strong light source to make them work effectively. Also, a colored light source seems to travel through a lot better than a clear or white light. In Iron Mans case, I would assume you are using yellow anyways?

Trust me, those little lights (if your using LEDs or the newer high Intensity LED's ?) can burn through a couple of little 1.5 volt watch batteries pretty quickly if they are left on for a while. The easier you make it to change the batteries, the happier you will be in the long run! (Plus, if the batteries leak, theres less chance of damaging the figure itself!)

good luck! Looking forward to seeing the end results!

[sprytel]

Intellectually, I agree with everything you are saying, Captain. The internal battery and wiring is a recipe for disaster on so many levels. And yet, I can't stop myself...

After several attempts, I have had some success though. Pics up in the other thread...

TMP Iron Man

Sadly, the Castaway torso did not survive the process. I had trouble cutting it along the seams. I had better luck with a CTVT torso, so I used one of those instead. May have just been me, but I suspect it is the difference in the plastic.

I also had trouble gluing it back together. Some seams re-sealed better than others... but the pressure on the figure is trying its best to make it come unglued. So I took a few unobtrusive strips of packing tape and used that to reinforce the joints. I am hoping over time the glue with set and the tape won't be needed anymore... but in the meantime, it is hardly noticeable.

I was worried about range of motion... but that hasn't been an issue. But I worried about the long-term stability of my installation. I suspect under true "play" conditions, a wire might be jarred loose or the bulb might pop out. I guess time will tell.

I really do appreciate all the input and encouragement, guys. It helped a lot.

[LonnieFisher]

You could hot glue the wires and bulbs in place. That should hold them pretty well.

[Boris71]

I have been toying with the idea of modifying the back of an emce toys body to have a place to hold some watch batteries and a switch, that way you could remove a panel to to replace the batteries and be able to run the elasic either side of the "box", that could be an otion for you