View Full Version : NEWBIE Question about painting

Jun 11, '07, 10:10 PM
Hi all,first of all I've seen some great customs here, you guys do great jobs, and I'd like to join the party... I tried painting my first head, I used white acrylic paint, and my problem is how blatantly visible the brushstrokes are. So i was wondering if any one can give advice on what to use to avoid this in the future (it was an OG Mego head.) thanks in advance!


Jun 11, '07, 10:27 PM
There are LOTS of solutions to your dilemma!

Let me give you mine: I use Tamiya acrylic paints. They are traditionally used in painting miniature tanks, vehicles, and planes, but I find them to be very effective on resin heads. They leave NO brushstrokes, dry evenly, and dry quickly. They also only require one coat usually for the darker colors; two for the lighter. They come in glossy or matte (use matte and a good sealant...and I have yet to find a good one :smiley1:). You can buy them online or at any hobby shop.

Welcome to the gang!! Can't wait to see your work.

There are many great customizers on this site - I'm sure they will give you other solutions to your problem, and you'll be able to make an informed decision on what you want to do!!

Jun 11, '07, 10:43 PM
also some good brushes always helps

Jun 12, '07, 2:47 AM
I use the cheapo acrylics from Walmart's craft section. I thin them down with water and do several coats until the color looks uniform. You are probably trying to do it with one thick coat, that will result in brush marks when it dries.

Dave Mc
Jun 12, '07, 5:47 AM
Thin coats, multiple coats, good brushes, that is the key for me.

www.custommego.com has a tutorial.

Jun 12, '07, 8:04 AM
Thin coats, multiple coats, good brushes, that is the key for me.

www.custommego.com has a tutorial.

I second this. Ceramcoat has an acrylic thinner that retains the color and extends the drying time of the paint. This usually eliminates the brush strokes. It takes longer, but the end result is worth it.

The Bat
Jun 12, '07, 9:51 AM
I recommend "Citadel Colour" Paint's, good Brushes, and drying time between coat's. Basicly...what these Guy's said!:biggrin:

Jun 13, '07, 7:37 AM

For original heads I use vynil paint; made for auto interiors. Works good, bonds with the plastic, extremely hazardous. (Use it outside.) It's thick, and dreis really fast; so it takes a few coats to blend out the strokes.

For resin heads I use house primer. (White, or maybe grey or black.) I use all sorts of different paints. Any acrylic will do. Citadel makes good stuff, so does Reaper. Tamiya stuff is good when you can find it, and Humbrol makes a decent acrylic. It all depends on what's available where you are. (The model kit guys recommend FreakFlex paints.) I also use Liquitex and Createx. They're made for airbrushes. Mix 'em with water and be careful; they're pretty fragile.

Seal them with something once dry. Gloss varnish protects better, but dries with a shine. You can spray matt OVER them (once dry) and take off a lot of the sheen. When I can find it, I use a satin finish furniture varnish. Has a mostly mat finish and protects as good as urethane.

Don C.

Jun 14, '07, 9:25 AM
I use Tamiya as well. They really work well for me.