Can someone educate me on the denatured alcohol process on these pvc parts?
I know the video suggests applying it to the parts and waiting 18-24 hours so the paint will set.
What occurs that takes nearly 24 hours to accomplish?
Do you reeeealy need to wait that long before primmer is applied?
I was wondering the same thing. I've never heard of denatured alcohol. Would rubbing alcohol work instead? I' like to start building some zombies, but dont have any of this special cleaner.
The denatured alcohol step was to clean off any residue release from
the casting process. The 24 hours was to make sure that the alcohol
completely dried up in the crevices like the eye socket.
You don't have to do any of it if you don't want to. The serious
model builders we spoke recommended it to make sure the surface
area is clean.
Fear the monkeybat!
>The denatured alcohol step was to clean off any residue release from the casting process.
You can get any extra mold release off by soaking/washing them in warm water with some dish soap. Dish soaps have stuff in 'em that removes greaes and oils, and break up most release agents quite well.
....and yeah; a lot of the time this step won't really be neccessary, but it doesn't hurt.
Don C.
ahhh very good info. thanks folks!
Tonite - the plan is a zombie painting party lol
I'm also a model builder, but in all my years of building, I've never heard of rubbing kit parts with denatured alcohol. I'm not saying it's a bad idea, only that I've never heard of it.
I know that some of the serious resin kit guys like soaking their kit parts overnight in degreaser (Castrol Super Clean, Purple Power, etc.) or Simple Green. Personally, I use Simple Green in a spray bottle. I just spray in on, give the parts a good scrubbing with an old tooth brush, rinse, and allow to dry over night. This technique has never failed me.
You should also be able to use Fantastic, or any of those multi-purpose spray cleaners. Or, as ctc said, warm water with dish soap should work as well. The point is to take the time to clean the parts before painting.
As for primer, I personally like Dupli-color brand automotive primer. You can get it at any auto parts store and it works great for resin, vinyl, or in this case, PVC. It's a bit more expensive that what you're gonna find at your local Walmart, but I think it's worth it. Specifically, I like the grey Filler Primer, but the rust, black, white or dark grey primers will all work just as well.
Lastly, you're going to want to protect that paint job you just spent your time and effort laying down. So, when you go to pick up a can of primer, also pick up a can of clear top coat. They come in glossy, semi-gloss/satin, and flat. Go with glossy if you want a fresh, wet look. Go with flat if you want an old, dry look. Semi-gloss/satin is good for something in between.
OK, that's my two cents. Now, go have fun and post pics!!!
did last night and had fun!Originally Posted by SciFiGuyLA
Posted details in Customs:
http://www.megomuseum.com/community/...ad.php?t=69412
Ha ha! Yeah, I saw your pics right after I posted. Good job! Makes me want to bust out my set and get to work.
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