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Resin help!!

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  • Brazoo
    Permanent Member
    • Feb 14, 2009
    • 4767

    Resin help!!

    I created a piece for a model I'm working on out of 2 part white resin. I think the resin is a bit old, but it seems to cure fine.

    I tried painting it with the oil based primer I always use (Mr. Surfacer 1200) and it seems to be reacting with the resin and getting tacky. Just on one side, mind you, the other side dried fine.

    So, I scrapped off the primer and sanded it down a bit and applied the acrylic paint directly to the piece and it seemed to cover okay, but then instead of drying that also got tacky.

    Any suggestions? When I have no paint on the piece it's not tacky.
  • Confessional
    Maker & Whatnot
    • Aug 8, 2012
    • 3410

    #2
    Classic problem that could be caused by a number of things… some quick thoughts…

    First I would not use an oil-based primer under water-based pigments on 2P-plastic. That's just a consideration of chemical properties. I'm not saying it won't work (but it also might degrade over time) if it actually absorbs and bonds, I've just been trained to understand fat over lean (bonding oil paint to a water-based ground or pigments) and bonding acrylics to one another is (reasonably) time-tested and can be better trusted. There are exceptions of course, especially when it comes to all the fancy all-in-one products/enamels now available. I'm not sure anyone really knows what combinations of these will do over time or with environment exposure.

    Standard [sic] process of elimination: Make sure your 2P-portioning is accurate and well-mixed as older/expired product will be more unstable. Ambient and product temperature could also cause issues… especially if you store your chemicals in a place other than where you work. Related chemical leeching and stickiness sometimes will stop with a long curing time… consider how long they've been drying. I've used old stock that's taken 3 days to cure, but it did cure. While other items never fully cured (remaining flexible) but took paint fine. For good measure, (especially if you aren't sanding them) prior to painting wipe those pieces down with alcohol and then wash in soap/water, and air dry too.

    The primer/paint is likely not causing the issue, more so likely to be revealing the issue. An single spot of uncured resin inside of your cast can leech/degass for years. Seems like most people who use your Surfacer product, do so on stable commercially cast models.

    If none of that works, I'd ditch your old product and start over.

    … btw, reading about Mr. Surfacer… interesting and seems versatile, best thinned I'm learning… well that, and modelers have very strong opinions! Hahah!
    Last edited by Confessional; Jun 10, '20, 6:06 PM. Reason: …toy science!

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    • Brazoo
      Permanent Member
      • Feb 14, 2009
      • 4767

      #3
      Originally posted by Confessional
      The paint is not causing the issue, it's revealing the issue. An single spot of uncured resin inside of your cast can leech/degass for years.

      For good measure, prior to painting wipe those pieces down with alcohol and then wash in soap/water, and air dry.

      If none of that works, I'd ditch your old product and start over.
      Thanks Confessional - that's exactly what I needed to know!

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      • Confessional
        Maker & Whatnot
        • Aug 8, 2012
        • 3410

        #4
        ^^ I tried to clarify that with some edits for you too! Modeling is a whole other universe of considerations… I was sucked into that as a kid, mesmerized by cranky old men who mastered battle damage and terrain. Fond memories but many moons have passed.

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        • Brazoo
          Permanent Member
          • Feb 14, 2009
          • 4767

          #5
          Oh man - well thank you so much. I've been trying to look this up online and it was driving me crazy because nobody was saying exactly what I was hoping to find out. One quick post here and bang! All the answers first try!

          It's funny - years ago when I painted on canvas I was always told never to use acryilc on oil for the exact reason you've explained. Mr. Surfacer was recommended to me by a model guy when I did my first model a couple of years ago and I always assumed it was oil because it's got solovent in it - lacquer thinner, I believe. All the info on the jar I have appears to be in Korean so I've never known much about it, but it seems that it is acryic paint after all, which is why it seems to work.

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