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1979 Kenner ALIEN Complete Restoration - ADULTS ONLY

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  • windebieste
    Museum Patron
    • Dec 31, 2015
    • 115

    #46
    To all intents and purposes, every one of these figures were manufactured to be exactly alike. Kenner only made a single production run of the figure in 1979 and they were mass produced to be exactly the same without any variants or alterations.

    The figure I initially used for the purpose of documenting a restoration has minor changes thoughout as documented on this thread. It is anomalous in this regard and I'm still curious about how these minor changes upon the figure fit into the figure's production run. It's either an early production sample or a late one. My tendency right now is to lean on the possibility it's an early production sample. One thing is certain though, it wasn't part of Kenner's mass market run. I just don't know where it fits in.

    Currently, I own 30+ of these Kenner Aliens and this is the first time I've seen one with these unique characteristics present. What's totally blown my mind is how I decided by absolute chance that it should be the first candidate I share restoration work.

    I've done as much chasing up on the figure as I can, in particular, contacting the vendor for as much details as possible. The vendor lives in England and was clearing out his deceased father's belongings, amongst them was this Alien. Apparently, it was purchased in the condition I received it in, unchanged in any way. It was purchased on Ebay about 15 years ago from a previous, now unknown source, in the US.

    I'm hoping someone who has some knowledge of the departmental infrastructure and manufacturing procedures at Kenner during the late 1970's will be able to shed some light on this item.

    Thanks for asking. Every time time I walk passed that particular figure, it winks at me. Well, not literally; but it's teasing me with those silent hollow eyes. It knows a secret; and it's not telling.

    -Windebieste.

    Comment

    • windebieste
      Museum Patron
      • Dec 31, 2015
      • 115

      #47
      Running a little behind schedule on all of this stuff; but hey, that's perfectly fine. I'm not driving a bus and have to be at each destination along my route at a specific time.

      Anyway, the figure has been dismantled and cleaned. All went well and there wasn't anything abnormal inside the figure. No one has stashed a thousand dollars inside it, either. Pity that. It more or less was the same as every other 1979 Kenner Alien that I have previously dismantled. A good bath in hot soapy water did the trick and then I laid the pieces out to dry in the Sun. No, I don't think I need to post photos of it sitting in my kitchen sink. Once was enough. You get the idea, right? The pair of broken rubber arm anchors fell away from the internal mounting post without any ceremony once the figure was opened. The interior was just a little dusty.



      These are the broken arm anchors. The earlier figure had been opened previously by an earlier repairer and removed the one broken arm anchor.
      So, yes. This is what you would normally find when these are broken.


      The serrated steel washer that holds the tail in place is mildly corroded. I've seen better. I've seen worse. It's in average condition. A little tightening will help it hold the tail in place with more confidence and eliminate the loose fitting. I'll go into the details on how to repair this minor issue later in the course of this restoration.



      The serrated washer that clamps the tail into the torso. Once again, this had been removed from the earlier figure restoration by a previous repairer.
      This is what you can normally expect to find fastening the tail into place.


      Other than that, nothing of any considerable note to be found inside this figure. Just your bog standard, 36 year old Alien with a few small issues that are easily tended to. Kind of an anticlimax and disappointment, really, after my last effort; but it's kind of reassuring to see that this figure is what anyone purchasing one of these can expect.

      Anyway, I'll get started on returning this figure to its former glory. that will happen either tomorrow or the next day or so. Got a lot on my plate at the moment so this kind of indulgence is taking a back seat for a couple of days. Also, I gotta buy some more materials for this one. I've run out of that wonderful neoprene rubber strip - having that stuff on hand is critical to successfully returning those arms to the figure.

      As for the work that actually needs attention on the figure, it has already been cleaned so that's the first item crossed off the list. Beyond that, it's a small set of tasks:

      - Return both arms to the figure and tension them so that they can each hold a pose.
      - Return the original shoulder crest to the figure so it no longer constantly falls out.
      - Tighten the tail at the base of the figure so it doesn't lazily flop around from side to side.
      - Straighten the tail so that it no longer has multiple unwanted warping curves along its entire length.
      - Tighten the legs at the hips so the figure can stand up without toppling over.
      - Add a carapace to the figure's head. This will have to be a reproduction piece. I don't have any spare genuine pieces at the moment but I have a few repro parts so I will use one of those.

      That's it. The rest of the figure is in a very good state. Just a nice, easy routine restoration of a handful of common problems you'll often find present on these Little Old Darlin's. Nothing I haven't done before. Many times, too, for that matter. Once we're finished, this figure will have terrific presentation value.

      -Windebieste.

      Comment

      • windebieste
        Museum Patron
        • Dec 31, 2015
        • 115

        #48
        Ack... My apologies. This update took longer than expected. Waaay too much on my plate at the moment. Rest assured, I haven't forgotten my pledge to finish this restoration. I do finish everything I start - I just started too many 'Projects' at once this time. That's all. lol.

        Let's get those arms back onto this figure, shall we?

        I've already documented how to do this with the earlier figure, but I wanted to try a variation on that technique with this one. For me to do so, I had to go and purchases some more materials. I needed some more 1mm neoprene rubber strip and while I was at the swimming pool supplies store, I thought "Hey, I've been using this 1mm thick stuff since I started, how about I try the next size up?" True, I'd had terrific success with the 1mm stuff and never thought of using 2mm thick neoprene strip. As it turned out, the store was having a 30% discount store sale. So I bought a meter of each, 1mm and 2mm thick neoprene strip for around $5. This should keep me going for a while.

        Anyway, the principles are the same but the difference in thickness brought all kinds of changes to the technique. So let's take a look at how this minor thickness change affected the technique. We'll get the visual documentation outta the way first:



        Once again, similar material sources were used: A wire coat hanger and a neoprene rubber strip - 2mm thick this time.




        Here the strip has now been cut and 2 short lengths will be used. The holes had been punched into each end - one is small, the other is large -
        of the rubber strips with the leather hole puncher. Also seen here is a length of wire cut from the coat hanger.





        2 separate pieces have been extracted from the coat hanger length, each about 15mm long and bent in the middle using 2 pairs of pliers. One of the rubber pieces
        has been shaped and tapered with one of the wire pieces fitted into it.





        Now the wire end of the improvised anchor has been inserted into the left arm and the anchor fixed into place on the front torso mounting
        post via the large hole. The remaining arm anchor is still unassembled and ready for use on the right arm.





        Both arms are now complete and the test assembly shows a successful application of the new improvised anchors.


        Needless to say, this method worked using the 2mm thick strip, but it did need some changes to the basic method. The 2mm material is a lot less elastic due to its doubled thickness but stronger and this definitely worked in its favor. That test assembly has the arms being held in a pose without the screws being present in the figure's back. It's a nice result. When fully assembled with the screws in place, it will be even better.

        The reduced elasticity meant that the distance between the mounting holes present on the material had to be increased. The previous 1mm rubber strip only needed 25mm distance between both holes. For the 2mm material, I found I needed 2 different measurements for the assembly to work. One length needed to be 33mm long for the first anchor to be attached to the figure's internal mounting post. Then 2 factors had to be catered to. Firstly, these anchors are mounted on top of each other inside the figure on a single post. This means that the 2mm thickness of the first anchor attached to post added some length to the 2nd anchor when it was mounted on top of the first one. The innate thickness of these new anchors along with the reduced elasticity meant less negotiation with them in regards to them stretching. So the measurements had to be more exact with the repair this time 'round. (I've often found that these lengths can sometimes vary between figures - this can be attributed to a number of things, for example, the angles that the wire anchors are bent may differ thus altering the length needed on the rubber. ...and so on.)

        To this end, I found the the sweet spot for each individual anchor was slightly different. The first anchor to be mounted on the post had to be 33mm between punched holes. The 2nd anchor had to be 34mm. That extra millimeter meant the the anchor could be slightly longer and the tautness of the repair match the tension on both arms.

        It took me a while to figure out the different correct lengths and appropriate measurements for both arms. This seems to work well and the arms hold a very secure pose, even more confident than the 1mm material; and that's a good thing. I did use up quite some material in order to actually get this right - and some time, too. The neoprene strip got whittled down to almost half its length on this repair as multiple attempts were needed to get those results. I'm definitely going to have to try this out some more.

        Also of note: the additional thickness of the 2mm rubber made it difficult to bend and squeeze it along with the wire anchor into the arm hole. Yeah, I guess it was easy enough to do so but I would regard 2mm to be the maximum thickness for this task. I've seen 3mm thick rubber available at the store but I am doubt it would be useful as the arm hole may not accommodate the buckled rubber of that thickness and wire with any great ease. The 2mm stuff worked well, holds the test assembly arms in place and generally appears to be more effective than the 1mm thick material I've been previously using. This is a good result and is probably the optimum thickness for its strength and ability to hold a very confident pose.

        I'll be doing this again to refine the technique on future restorations but at this stage it is a great starting base for this repair. I am very excited about the longer repercussions of this repair. You'll see what I mean. ...if it all works out, that is.

        -Windebieste.

        Comment

        • windebieste
          Museum Patron
          • Dec 31, 2015
          • 115

          #49
          Finding time to continue with these posts has become a little challenging of late. Way too many Projects on the go, all at once. So, apologies for the delay. I do finish what I start.

          Anyway, this figure has a very loose tail. It just swings lanquidly to and fro in a pendulous manner. It's too loose actually but at least the repair to be conducted is nice and simple. This figure is complete inside with the serrated washer still in place upon the tail's stub. It's had over 30 years to work itself free a little, hence the looseness of the joint. The tail stub itself is in good and clean condition and the washer itself is only a little corroded. Nothing too bad, just showing its age, too. It's certainly in good enough condition to continue its task for another 30 years.

          In this regard the parts that hold the tail in place are all present and in great shape. They really don't need much attention. We just need to re-secure the washer back down on the tail, narrowing the amount of play within the base of the torso. Easy peasy.



          A 1/2" socket seated on the tail and washer assembly; and an extension bar. Push down on the washer to tighten it. Simple.


          Normally just pushing down on the extension bar is enough to shift the washer back down into place on the tail thus tightening the limb once again. Sometimes this activity may need to be accompanied by a light tap with a hammer upon the end of the extension bar. You may have to get someone to give you a hand if a hammer is required as you will need to hold the figure, hold its tail, hold the socket and bar and be able to use the hammer. Just light taps to the bar should be adequate. You may want to secure the dorsal crest in place with adhesive tape before you attempt this. The impact shock of the hammer can transfer the force through the figure and cause the loose crest to shake and break its mounting point. You don't want to trade one problem for another if you can avoid it.

          Once the tail has been re-tightened, its lasting success can vary. Sometimes the tail will remain firm and well connected to the torso regardles so f how many times you turn it. Sometimes it will come loose once again if you twist it so much as a quarter turn. It depends on a number of factors, among them, the quality of the tail stub and the washer. Before you commence the repair, it's best to rotate the tail to your preferred orientation when the figure is going to be displayed and leave it there.

          If you are conducting other internal repairs it's a good idea for the tightening of the tail be the last repair made on the figure before it is re-assembled.

          Almost done. Just got a couple small issues to address now and this fellow will be back on his feet in no time. Well, metaphorically speaking, anyway.

          -Windebieste.

          Comment

          • windebieste
            Museum Patron
            • Dec 31, 2015
            • 115

            #50
            OK, moving on right now. Public Holiday today so I have time to complete the last item I want to document on this particular figure. It's not the only other task that's been performed on this item, but the other repairs have been documented while working on the earlier figure - I don't see the point of duplicating them here.

            Anyway, today I'm going to show you how I re-attached the dorsal crest to this figure. Firstly, the crest itself is in good shape and it's an original piece. The problem with the piece being free of the figure has nothing to do with the crest itself but rather the plastic in the torso back which is thin and easily broken. This is a common problem and frequently these figures have often lost their crest as a result. There's a number of ways to address this problem.

            As the damage to the back torso half is irreparable (in most cases) I need to address the spike itself. These are the options worth considering:

            - I could just ignore repairing it, and keep the piece separate. That's a valid action - but it is prone to the piece being lost. I don't want to risk that and besides, it's counter to restoring the figure as much as possible.

            - I could modify the crest and fix it in place from the interior of the figure. I really don't want to do this simply because it's an original piece and it's more valuable in its complete state. If the crest had been lost and I wanted to make the figure 'feature complete' by using a reproduction part, then yes. I would definitely 'ruin' a facsimile part to this end - but not an original piece like this.

            - I could glue it back in place. HAH! That's not even within the bounds of what I would consider appropriate. Neither should you. Adding adhesives to the figure further removes it from its original state. Besides, most glues have a limited longevity. Before too long, it will perish, weaken and fail. The crest will come free once again and leave you with the additional burden of unwanted residue on the figure that you may not be able to remove. Only use glue as an absolute last resort; and as there are better options available for this repair, it should be dismissed completely. No glue. OK? You got that..? No glue. No adhesives. No weird gooey black stuff... It's just not necessary.

            OK, so those are the immediate options available to me but the final option that I will use will not be either of these choices. A 4rth option is appropriate here but I will have to go into some back ground first:

            When I first started repairing these vintage toys, I did a lot of experimenting with materials for repairing the arms. I used a bunch of stuff - mostly rubber materials to secure them back in place. Eventually I settled on the neoprene rubber as the most effective. It could repair the arms, have the figure hold a pose and was completely reversible without marking or modifying the figure in any way. To fix the crest, I needed a similar philosophy to the solution. Amongst the various materials I tried (including strips cut from bicycle tire inner tubes along with other easily acquired materials) to fix the arms, I used sponge rubber. The sponge rubber is available in similar lengths to the neoprene and was available from my local pools store. But the sponge rubber was way too soft and pliable. It also stretched way too easily and the arms wouldn't hold a pose. So it was abandoned in favor of the neoprene variety.

            Nonetheless, the sponge rubber did make a handy comeback to repair these figures. It turns out that the material is easily compressed and will spring back into its original shape instantley. When it is placed into the gap on the back of the figure along with the crest, it will fill the damaged area and expand to keep the crest in place securely.



            The loose crest/spike/thingy and a narrow piece of compressible sponge rubber. I guess any spongy material will work - but I already had this stuff in long strips,
            so I will use it. Besides, It's black - and that's important.





            The crest is now secured to the figure once again. The small strip of sponge rubber is barely even detectable between the figure and the crest. It's there alright,
            on the upper contact points between the torso and the crest but the color helps to conceal the addition.


            It's an easy repair and does no alteration to the figure. I just pushed the spike back into the hole along with the sponge rubber. How easy is that? The rubber is positioned along the damaged edge on the torso hole. The compressed sponge then pushes against the pegs on the crest and forces the slot on the lower peg onto the undamaged edge of the mounting hole. It seated there, very securely. It looks very good despite a very small edge of the strip being visible but due to its black appearance it matches the figure and is not easily observable.

            There's some movement in the piece, too, as it would normally have had some amount of play when it was new and it's good to replicate that. It's also a repair that needs no disassembly of the figure, which is a bonus. You just wedge the rubber into place with the spike. Simple. This technique does come with some caveats, though.

            Sometimes, the spike will not sit straight and will appear to be at a wild angle due to the fact that some foreign material is present and acting upon it. This can be altered by removing the spike and sponge rubber; then repeat the procedure - usually by using a smaller piece of rubber. Some experimentation usually results in a good finish.

            Another problem you may encounter is both the top and the bottom of the mounting slot may be damaged. This repair still works, but the finish is wildly dependent on how well the figure and crest will accept the rubber in place. You may need to place 2 pieces of sponge rubber into the figure. Of course, the more you have to add, the chances of success are reduced.

            - - - - -

            There were a couple of other repairs needed on this figure that have also been performed. These include the re-tightening of the legs at the hips and the straightening of the warping on the tail. Both of these repairs were also common with the earlier figure and are documented there - I don't see the point of duplicating those processes with this figure as they are exactly the same. You can easily read back through these posts to see how they were done.

            This figure is now 'feature complete'. It looks great, can hold a pose and I am very happy with the result. There isn't much more to be said about it except for one final post rounding up its 'Before' and 'After' status - and I will do that sometime during the next week to complete its documentation. Once again, it's quite a dramatic rehabilitation and was totally worth the time, effort and $5 it took to restore the figure to a state where it can now be proudly displayed.

            -Windebieste.

            Comment

            • windebieste
              Museum Patron
              • Dec 31, 2015
              • 115

              #51
              This figure is now complete - all it needed is a reproduction carapace* to finish it off - and it's time to wrap up this little Project with a final set of comments along with a set of 'Before and After' images.

              This particular figure exhibited a few common problems that were not present on the earlier item I documented in this thread which made the item a worthy of attention. The broken crest mount and loose tail are common features that need fixing on these vintage figures. It also provided me with the opportunity to experiment a little on returning the arms to the figure by using a slight deviation from the method I have successfully previously used. I have some mixed feelings about the results regarding the arms - but I am overall pleased with the result. I'll note it all down below.



              The profile of the figure displays significant improvements. The spike and arms have been returned making it much more
              complete and presentable upon a display shelf.





              It's front orientation displaying the improved condition of the tail and presence of the arms.




              The simple act of just cleaning the dust off the figure using warm soapy water and a toothbrush can improve the figure's presentation dramatically.


              A couple of features upon this figure haven't gone as well as I would have liked. Firstly, using the 2mm thick neoprene rubber for the arm anchors turned out to be a double edged sword. It's utilisation has had both favourable and unfavourable consequences. Firstly, the thicker strips were significantly stronger than the previously used 1mm material. This made for greater ability of the figure to hold a pose, which it does admirably. It does so with satisfying results except the greater tension applied to the figure by the thicker rubber means it is less flexible and rotating the arms outside of its initially assembly can result in the improvised rubber anchor snapping and the arm falling free once again. I had this happen to me twice during the work performed on this figure.

              In which case, if you are going to use the 2mm neoprene rubber to fix the arms you can overcome this problem by seating the arms in the position that you want them in prior to assembling the torso. This works fine if you only intend to display the figure and not manipulate its arms in any way. This is the preferred action you should adopt with these old toys anyway. They ceased being play things years ago.

              Another side effect I noticed, and this is observable in the After image in the front orientation of the figure, is the tendency of the stronger anchors to pull the hands together more than they would normally. You can see in the image above that the left had is significantly positioned above the right hand instead of alongside it. This is the result of the stronger rubber pulling internally on the arm more than necessary.

              Mind you, there is an upshot to all this. The arms are significantly stronger and when set in place hold the pose very confidently. So much so that they are able to actually hold objects:



              The figure is holding a glass without fault. I'm more than confident that the figure can hold this delicate object without dropping it.
              The alternative 1mm neoprene is good enough to hold a pose, but I wouldn't trust it to not drop such an item. Ultimately, I ended up
              dubbing this figure 'Hercules'.


              The only other issue this figure has that I wasn't so satisfied with was the straightening of the tail. I would have liked to have removed the warping completely but failed to do so. I did manage to reduce it considerably, but the desirable fully straight condition I was aiming for wasn't achieved. I can always attempt this again later - without rushing. Much of these repair procedures on these old figures requires time and patience. Always put aside a few hours to attempt to address any of these repairs. Some go easier than others; but there is always a high likelihood that any given repair may need to be repeated before the desirable result is achieved. I've tried to ensure that (almost) all of the repairs I have documented throughout this thread are repeatable should the need arise. Always take care when trying to fix one of these old toys. Ask for help if needed.

              So we now come to the end of this specimen and its rehabilitation. He's generally worked out well. The arms are returned to their proper place and can hold a pose despite their lack of maneuverability, its dorsal crest sits in place confidently without falling back out, the legs have been tightened so the figure can stand without drunkenly toppling over, the tail is now secure without being a wobbling pendulous limb and has also been straightened (well, it's now straighter at the very least) so I am overall pleased with the result. Oh, and it was cleaned thoroughly as well, giving it a great finish.

              Now that I've completed the 2nd documentation figure on this thread and in so doing have added to the number of repairs that can be made to it, it's time for me to contemplate my next restoration. The next 1979 Kenner Alien action figure I will be documenting will have a completely different approach. This 3rd figure is simply not up to standard to be restored in the same manner as these previous figures. It's actually a very special case and its treatment will be more in the manner of a customisation rather than a full restoration.

              It's going to be a while before I attempt this activity as I have to purchase more parts that have to be shipped from the US to where I live in Australia. This particular planned customisation is also stepping well outside my normal recommendations for how to treat these figures in a respectful manner so I am both excited and reticent at the idea. I'll make my intentions clear once those parts arrive but until then I will be taking a break from scrubbing these old toys with a toothbrush and making them hold a liquor glass.

              -Windebieste.

              *I'm frequently using reproduction parts where necessary as it's the only way to return some of these old figures into a 'complete' and presentable state. I always declare their presence when they are being used. Aside from the facsimile carapace, all other features upon this figure are original.

              Comment

              • Drzsmith
                Veteran Member
                • Jul 9, 2011
                • 261

                #52
                how about a demonstration on installing the inner teeth?

                Comment

                • windebieste
                  Museum Patron
                  • Dec 31, 2015
                  • 115

                  #53
                  Let's get this out the gate first: Attempting to address this problem can vary greatly. Results are not guaranteed.

                  The split tongue (inner teeth, pharyngeal jaw - take your pick) is made up of 2 chrome pieces and either 1 or both of them are often missing from the figure. They mount into small, delicate clips that sit inside the mouth. You have to keep in mind these action figures are recognised as 'vintage' for good reason and many of them are just suffering from age - some issues simply not be repaired. Also problematical is the assembly of the head which cannot be dismantled so the clips upon the trigger mechanism can only be accessed through the mouth and access is inhibited further if both pairs of teeth are still mounted in the jaws.



                  Looking inside the maw of Ol' Toothless here, both clips for the tongue's halves are visible inside the mouth. This pair are still in good condition and will hold a
                  tongue in place. Why these things were made to be so delicate is a mystery. They could easily have been thickened at the design stage of manufacturing.


                  Sometimes those clips may be broken as they are small and delicate. If this is the case, you may not be able to make this repair - or at the very least you may need to use glue. That's not something I would normally recommend but as this is the only option remaining as a last resort to make a figure 'feature complete' in this regard, you may need to do so.

                  On the other hand, if the clips are still good and you still have the original tongue pieces but they keep falling out (or are loose inside their mounts) then you can fix them in place with relative security. A very small piece of paper can be used as packing to help hold them in place. You have to be careful, though and only add a thin piece to hold the split tongue halves in place. You don't want to damage the clips in the process of returning these pieces to the mouth and success can vary from one figure to the next. You can dampen the piece of paper to help it stay in place during the process and the moist paper will also dry into a form fitting shape that will improve the repair.




                  Note the tiny piece of yellow paper sitting against the rounded peg that will sit into the clips. It will act as packing and is (usually) enough to keep the tongue
                  in place without too much looseness. Results WILL vary.

                  One thing you will also keep in mind. Some reproduction tongues lack the ability to sit properly in the internal mouth clips due to their lacking the bulbous round leading edge of the peg present on the tongue. You can still attempt to place the repro piece in place using this method but once again, results can vary.

                  Repeated attempts are possible if this fails the first or second time. Of course in the end if this fiddling task is too awkward or unsatisfactory, *sigh* you may have to resort to using glue.
                  -Windebieste.

                  Comment

                  • Drzsmith
                    Veteran Member
                    • Jul 9, 2011
                    • 261

                    #54
                    thanks for thhe info,waiting for the parts in the mail will let you know how it goes.

                    Comment

                    • windebieste
                      Museum Patron
                      • Dec 31, 2015
                      • 115

                      #55
                      Oh, please do! Feedback is always welcome.

                      I'm always interested in seeing how people fare with fixing their Aliens. I'm always out to learn more! Sharing experiences is very valuable in this regard.

                      After all, what has worked for me may not be appropriate to someone else. I'm always interested in knowing alternative solutions to problems like this. ESPECIALLY if they are better or improvements on methods that I have offered on this thread. I'm sure there are improvements and better ways to do some of these repairs - these are just the ones I have found that worked.

                      -Windebieste.

                      Comment

                      • windebieste
                        Museum Patron
                        • Dec 31, 2015
                        • 115

                        #56
                        YIPPEE! My shipment of parts arrived today, and what a box it is! Well, the contents are impressive, anyway.

                        The box contained a multitude of original Kenner and third party facsimile parts. I've been expecting this package to arrive for a few weeks now and have been eagerly awaiting its arrival. Now that it is here, I can progress on a number of other restorations and also progress on a much larger Project I have been working on constantly since last June. I'll also be able to further advance the work on that customised Kenner figure as well.



                        Here's the box, just opened with some of its contents disgorged. No... The figure on the right didn't come in the box. He won't fit. I was enthusiastic about giving
                        him his brand spanking new reproduction dome that he made it into the photo. He's now complete and much better now!





                        Now we are looking at the contents of the box. There is a ton of cool stuff here. On the Left is an incomplete original Kenner figure. It's just missing the head and
                        dorsal spike otherwise it's almost all there. The rest of the stuff in this image from Center to Right is reproduction parts: 6x shoulder spikes, 4x sets of teeth, 3x split
                        tongues and 10 domes. These will all come in handy!


                        Let's document the original parts out of the way. These are all from the same figure and the quality ranges from good to severely degraded. Of this batch, the arms interest me most as I have an immediate use for them. The right arm is good and still has its rubber anchor. The left arm is in decent shape, too, albeit missing its anchor. Both arms are otherwise feature complete with all fingers and both elbow spurs present. The right leg is also in decent condition. However, the left leg is shattered at the hip and will need to be reconstructed in order to reattach it to a future figure. Importantly, I have no need for this part right now so this isn't as big a problem as it looks. Not at the moment, anyway. The tail is in good shape, too. It's reasonably straight with almost no warping and the very tip which can easily be broken off is still present. The tail isn't perfect as there is some corrosion staining the tail stub but this will not be visible when the tail is attached to another figure, so it's not a problem for presentation purposes. The quad dorsal set of appendages is in an acceptable state, the lower left appendage has had a small slice taken off of its end tip but is otherwise usable as a replacement part if I need one. All of the curved appendages are still firmly attached to their mounting plate, which is a good thing. The back torso half is in passable condition but it has the significant advantage of having its crest's mounting slot remain unbroken - it's a little stressed from the crest coming free, but it's in good shape otherwise. The front torso half is in an acceptable state but one of the screws is still present in one of the mounting posts. This figure suffered from a lot of corrosion to all of its metal parts. The vendor had to drill out the screws in order to dismantle the figure. Fortunately, he was able to remove 3 of the 4 screws. The pieces have a light cigarette smoke smell to them. I'll get that odor out as much as possible.

                        (I'll remove the final severed screw at a later date. To do so, I'll drill a small hole into the remaining screw stump and drive a smaller screw to it - either a watch screw or a screw that holds a pair of glasses together. I'll carefully add a drop of super glue to the arrangement. Let it set and then unscrew both from the mounting post together. Not hard to do.)



                        This looks like doom for this shattered hip. While all the pieces were present, the fragments will not be needed for me to reconstruct this destroyed joint.
                        I won't go into too much details here, but to reattach this leg I will reassemble the torso halves only and while they are together use them as a mold
                        to cast a replacement joint and then fit the new joint into the upper half of the leg. The process will be very much like a very real surgical hip replacement
                        on the leg. Then reassemble the figure once again. ...but I'm not desperate for a new left leg right now, so this activity is way down on my list of priorities.
                        NOTE: Glue has previously been used to attempt a repair on this figure. Well, see how good that went? Glue can be useless and just create more work when
                        it fails and leaves a nasty residue.





                        All the original pieces have been washed and are already significantly improved. They longer smell of stale cigarette odor, either! Bonus!
                        Most of these pieces will go into my box of spare parts. The arms and the tail I have uses for straight away and I'll discuss the use of the
                        arms further shortly.


                        I know I wanted to get stuck into working on the custom figure when these arrived but it will have to wait. I'm still waiting for some more materials to arrive. In the meantime, some of the items in this selection of repro parts will be put to good use. I have another figure that also needs a better pair of arms than what it currently has and the arms it has currently will be swapped out for the ones that arrived in the mail today. His current arms, one of which is damaged at the elbow, will be handed down to a more degraded figure. Actually, the candidate for the custom work will receive them.

                        I'll post again soon about the figure that will receive the new set of arms - I've had it for quite a while and he's been waiting for many, many months for this upgrade. There's a few features on him I will be discussing as well. That will happen sometime soon in my next post.

                        Thanks for reading!

                        -Windebieste.

                        Comment

                        • windebieste
                          Museum Patron
                          • Dec 31, 2015
                          • 115

                          #57

                          I'd like to introduce you to an old friend of mine. This is Douglas Adams. I've had Douglas for a long time now, how long I'm not so sure... but he's been in my possession long enouth to be listed as entry no. 7 in my work log book, so I've had him for a long time.

                          Anyway, this figure was missing both arms when I bought him but that wasn't the only feature lacking. Also absent from this figure was a number of other parts. His dorsal crest, his carapace, the dentition from his upper jaw and both halves of his tongue were all missing. He was also in a very dirty state and exceedingly scruffy. Sometime soon after acquiring this figure, I sourced and purchased a pair of 2nd hand arms online and I set to work to repair him. He got cleaned, his tail was straightened and that new set of arms were attached. While his new right arm was slightly damaged at the elbow and a couple of finger tips showed some signs of wear, it was certainly preferable to having no arms at all. Once his arms were in place, all that remained for him to be completed was to populate the missing spaces on his body with those aforementioned parts. This is the current state you see the figure in today:



                          The figure has had some work performed on it since I first acquired it. Along with a number of other tasks performed
                          on it many moons ago, a much needed pair of arms have since been added to it.


                          He was then put aside to wait for the day that those missing parts could one day be purchased. Thanks to this recent delivery, I now have those parts and the figure can finally be rehabilitated to an acceptable degree. Now let's get stuck into the assessment for this hapless old action figure. Poor Douglas Adams. He has had such a rough life:



                          The paintwork on Douglas' head isn't the best. It's scratched, marked and scuffed and both halves of the head have a clear separation
                          down the center. At least it still glows in the dark.





                          When we look inside his mouth, we see the pieces for the upper dentition and the split tongue are all missing. The tongue clips inside the mouth
                          are good, so his mouth can be fully restored once again.


                          Douglas Adams has a really ugly head. Among the generous amount of scratches and scuffs that are present there's a red blemish I cannot remove. No. I am not going to use solvents on it - it's not worth the risk of damaging the figure any further. It's just a small mark and I'll just think of it as a blood stain from his last victim. His oral condition isn't much better. 3 of the 4 pieces that should normally be present in his mouth are gone. This can only be fixed by purchasing genuine (rare and expensive) parts online or by re-populating his mouth with facsimiles. He's also lacking his carapace. This missing head covering will be treated in the same manner as the teeth and tongue. I'm going to use a reproduction part for its replacement. It will just have to do.

                          If Douglas Adams was in otherwise excellent condition and had just one or 2 pieces missing, I'd consider waiting and purchasing genuine pieces online. However, as you can see from the condition of the head alone and the number of absent features, repro parts will do fine to return this average quality figure to a display worthy state.



                          The arms aren't original to the figure. Unknowingly to myself at the time of purchase, the elbow spur on the right arm was damaged.


                          As the right arm is a little battered and I have recently received a better one, I'll be replacing Douglas current right arm with the arm that came in the mail the other day. This will lift the figure's overall quality just that little bit. No one cares if reproduction parts are damaged. Hell, Man, you just toss 'em out and use another one. But this is a damaged original part that I can replace right now with another original piece in superior condition. I'll keep the arm with the damaged elbow - it will come in handy later. You'll see. Never discard or throw out damaged original pieces for these old toys. Even a broken head that has been severed at the neck can be effectively restored to a figure! (Without the need for any glues, too, for that matter.)



                          The all too common missing dorsal crest. NOTE: The jagged break at the bottom of the slot. This is bad and cannot be repaired...
                          ...but we can work around it.


                          Now we come to the missing dorsal spike and this is not the first time I've shown this kind of damage to one of these figures. This is a common problem. You get the picture, right? Anyway, there's several ways to return a crest to the back of the figure. I'll be using a reproduction part in this instance. I'll be treating it very differently to using an original piece. Whereas original pieces receive Reverence and Respect when being returned to the figure, repro parts are sacrificial and tortured for the Greater Glory. You'll see...

                          I'll commence documenting the repairs and re-population of this figure with facsimiles in my next post. It shouldn't be a long process but it will include some lengthy discussion regarding their philosophy, use (and abuse) of such 'repro' parts.

                          -Windebieste.
                          Last edited by windebieste; Apr 27, '16, 12:18 AM.

                          Comment

                          • windebieste
                            Museum Patron
                            • Dec 31, 2015
                            • 115

                            #58
                            To bring this figure up to 'feature complete' status and make it display worthy, I will need to use some reproduction parts and this recent delivery means that Douglas Adams will once again be whole and decent once again. Importantly, though, I am also going to use this opportunity to discuss the pros and cons of using facsimile or reproduction parts in finishing an otherwise incomplete figure. Doug here, is a perfect candidate to this end and we'll get to him later.

                            Before I continue working on that figure, though, I am going to discuss and explore my philosophy and practice with such third party parts. First, I need to clarify what 'feature complete' actually means to me. For a long time, this figure was missing many parts and I knew in order to fully restore it I would have to utilise parts other than those that the original manufacturer, Kenner, produced. The upside of this exercise means the use of such repro parts will complete the figure and all of its features would be present once again. It also means that the figure isn't going to be 100% wholly original; but at least all of its features were present, making it 'feature complete'. I have no problem with having to do this. It's not something I have much of a choice in. Kenner Products never made any spare parts for these old toys more than 35 years ago and the only original parts available now have to be salvaged from wrecked figures of the same vintage.



                            Here's 4 carapaces. 3 of them are facsimiles. One is original. They are all different in appearance and quality but would you be able to tell which one is the legitimate item?
                            The item on the far right is an original Kenner Products carapace.


                            The important thing to realise is 'feature complete' and '100% Genuine' are two very different definitions for any figure's condition. Any Genuine loose parts are rare and very much in demand. In which case, they are also expensive. Ridiculously so. For example, a Genuine carapace - even a mangled one with cracks and other aberrations - can easily fetch over US$50 on Ebay. One in good condition can easily push up to and exceed US$100. ...and that is if you can find one. So in order for me to fully repair a figure like Douglas, where I need half a dozen places on the figure to be filled, I have several choices:

                            1). Accept the figure is never going to be whole once again. Let it be incomplete. It's no crime nor is it embarrassing or shameful for a figure to be displayed in a state where it's missing a few parts. You want to know why? Simple. No one can take away the fact that it's an Original 1979 Kenner Alien action figure. Ever. This is true regardless of what state it's in. Parts missing or not. It's a piece of toy history and that can never change.

                            2). Wait and buy original parts. This is a very valid option. That is, if you are willing and prepared to wait for Genuine rare loose parts to appear on Ebay that will go to the highest bidder, then go for it. Some people will tell you it's part of their Goal to complete their figure using 100% original parts only. It's part of the Joy of the experience to personally witness their figure reach 100% legitimacy by incrementally adding Genuine parts back to it. They get a kick out of engaging in this challenge of fully restoring an otherwise average item into a Collectible that is complete in every way. This is a worthy Goal but expect it to be time consuming exercise while you wait for Genuine parts to become available. It's potentially expensive, too. The outcome here is of course the preferred option - a fully restored 100% Genuine item - but not necessarily one within everyone's grasp or motivation.

                            3). Going 'feature complete' using facsimile parts still makes a figure display worthy. In the case of this particular figure, which has a number of issues as outlined in the assessment above and due to this multitude of issues, it might not be the best idea to spend time and money on Genuine parts that would be more wisely used on a figure in better condition. This is a very patchy figure at its best and reproduction parts will suffice in order to bring it up to a state where it still looks terrific. It's a Judgement Call, for sure, but it will still work out well in the end and there are quite literally dozens upon dozens of these figures out there in the World in average condition that could dramatically benefit from a few well placed facsimile parts.

                            4). Do both - mix and match. Buy a genuine carapace and a reproduction crest. Most repro carapaces are easily observable for not being genuine parts so an original might be best sought. On the other hand, most reproduction crests are almost completely identical and indistinguishable from an original piece. If you add one of each, the finish of the figure will still be terrific!

                            5). Sell it. If you're not happy with the options above, you can cash the incomplete figure in on Ebay. Someone like myself will buy it. I'm always looking for a degraded Karcass* which is missing parts and I'm always wanting to find one and strip much wanted salvageable content from it.



                            A pair of upper halves of the split tongue. The one on top is an original item. The reproduction item below it has a slightly dull appearance to
                            it and is slightly coarser in its presentation. It also lacks the bulbous attachment point (Far Right of the piece) that would aid it significantly in
                            staying in place when added to the figure's mouth.


                            I see repro parts as a Necessary Evil under specific conditions. I'd rather not have to use them but it means a lot to me to get these old figures looking good and proudly displayed once again so I will engage in their use when appropriate. I don't mind their presence on these figures providing a single caveat is unconditionally adhered to. At any time when such parts are being used, their presence should always be openly declared. If a figure for sale possesses so much as a single facsimile part, then it's in everyone's best interest that it be made known. After all, as I have stated before, their presence doesn't change the fact that the item is an original 1979 Kenner Products Alien action figure.

                            Of course, this use of repro parts does have its downside as well and the real problems associated with such reproduction parts is the duplicitous practice to which they can be employed by less scrupulous sellers. Some vendors will populate an incomplete figure with such parts to increase its value and declare it to be 100% complete when it is listed for sale. This declaration of being '100% complete' is true but it does not necessarily mean it's 100% Genuine. Such a declaration may be intended to convince prospective purchasers that the figure is indeed 100% Genuine with the goal of raising any additional amount that may be paid for the item due to this claim.

                            The situation becomes even more problematic as time goes by. A vendor in possession of a figure that has changed hands many times may honestly believe that the figure they have for sale is 100% Genuine. What they may not be aware of is the figure may have had at any time in its past has had reproduction parts introduced to it to replace something that has gone missing prior to their ownership. The dorsal crest, for example, may have been replaced with a reproduction part at some point during an earlier ownership and if the part is well made it can be very convincing.



                            A dorsal crest... is this one a Genuine item or is it a reproduction? For the sake of exploring the nature of reproduction parts in this post it's only
                            fitting that this piece actually be a facsimile, which it is.


                            So, reproduction parts have their place (pun intended) as far as I am concerned. For me, they are a necessary part of getting these nearly 4 decades old action figures to a state that they may be displayed. In most cases, I know a reproduction part when I see - but few people could do so. Be very careful if you choose to purchase one of these old Alien toys. Ask all the questions you can before you purchase. Even then, as outlined immediately above, a vendor who legitimately believes they are selling a 100% Genuine figure may be easily honestly mistaken.

                            One final comment regarding facsimiles. You may knowingly have a figure in hand that has 1 or 2 repro parts present. At some point in time you may come across some Genuine parts that are ideal for your figure. Buy them. Replace them. Using repro parts in most cases will do absolutely no damage to the figure whatsoever and are just as valid as place holders until they can be traded out with legitimate pieces. It's no big deal. You can just swap 'em out with ease.

                            Anyway, this post has become lengthy so I will end it here and resume documenting the actual work on good ol' Douglas Adams in my next post.

                            -Windebieste.

                            *Karcass = portmanteau of 'Kenner' and 'carcass'. A word I like to use to identify old Alien figures that are only good for stripping parts from.

                            Comment

                            • windebieste
                              Museum Patron
                              • Dec 31, 2015
                              • 115

                              #59
                              Much of Douglas Adams' restoration is going to rely heavily on those aforementioned reproduction parts. He's going to require a carapace, all 4 mouth parts and a dorsal spike and all of these items are now in my possession. I'm also going to swap his arm with the broken elbow with the one that arrived recently in the mail. For most intents and purposes Old Dougy will be feature complete. Not 100% perfect' and certainly not 100% genuine. Nonetheless Douglas isn't an A grade quality figure so I'm happy to just restoring him to a display worthy state as an adequate goal considering his less than perfect condition.



                              To get this figure up to a display worthy state, I'll be using these reproduction parts. It's basically a complete set of all the common parts that can go missing:
                              The carapace, the shoulder spike, both halves of the split tongue and the dentition for both jaws.


                              One of the things I will sacrifice with this figure for the sake of consistency is the removal of the teeth on his bottom jaw. The orginal chromed 1979 part will contrast with the recently made silver painted upper teeth and split tongue halves. It's only a slight deviation from the original but it will be a subtle clash of sheen and luster as the repro parts do not fully match the remaining original part. It will be noticeable that the parts don't quite look consistent. The solution is to remove the teeth on the bottom jaw and populate the entire mouth with all 4 matching facsimile teeth and tongue parts. Then I can take that original lower dentures piece and put it to good use on another figure that has all of the other mouth parts present except it's missing that one piece.



                              Here, I have removed the lower teeth from the mouth of the figure. To do so was easy. I wrapped some cloth tape around the tines of the pliers
                              and pulled the teeth out with a quick tug. It doesn't damage the figure (The teeth can have a tendency to fallout of some figures, anyway.). The
                              cloth tape wrapped around the tines serves 2 purposes: Firstly, it provides a good grip on the teeth when pulled; and Secondly, the tape protects
                              the coated part and eliminates any possible scratching to the chrome finish. The piece is removed from the mandible cleanly and without any damage.


                              The net result will be one figure, Douglas Adams, possessing a full set of matching reproduction teeth; and another figure with a full set of 100% original teeth. As I have this figure set aside ready to receive this set of lower dentures it makes sense to allocate the genuine lower teeth to it rather than have a pair of figures both featuring mouths full of mismatched pieces.

                              The carapace will just fit on the top of the head and sit there. I will just use a rubber band to hold it in place. There's not much else that can be done regarding any carapace, Kenner just didn't design keeping that element in place with any great thought. A decent nudge will knock even an original carapace off the head of one of these old figures. A rubber band may look unsightly but it's really is the best option.

                              As for the dorsal crest, I'll tackle it's return to the figure in a separate post. While all of the necessary tooth pulling has already been performed on this figure, there will still be more torture involved!

                              -Windebieste.

                              Comment

                              • windebieste
                                Museum Patron
                                • Dec 31, 2015
                                • 115

                                #60
                                Let's get this crest... spike... whatever this thingy is onto the back of this figure. This will be a secure repair that will keep the figure complete without the piece falling back out again. This option is much more reliable than wedging it in place with a piece of sponge rubber. That technique is only advisable if you have an original piece and don't want to make any physical changes to it or the figure. It's not 100% reliable, but it does not reduce the quality of the figure any further than the slot already being damaged.

                                As the crest for Douglas Adams, it has long since been lost and I will be using a reproduction part for the purpose of making the figure 'feature complete'. As the repro piece is neither original nor particularly valuable (Except upon purchase, these things do cost too much for what they are.) and no one cares if a replica piece is damaged during the process of adding it to the figure, then mutilating it to achieve this goal won't be a problem. So let's get started with this activity. One of the actions we will be doing is to calculatedly and wantonly damage the facsimile piece so it will serve our purpose. Let the torture commence!



                                Here's 3 crests. The one on the top left is an original piece. The other 2 are replicas. The white one on the bottom right comes from a supplier in Spain.
                                Note that the 2 pegs on that unpainted piece are missing? That's perfectly fine. I would have removed them anyway.


                                The slot on the back of the figure is damaged and the pegs that hold the piece in situ are no longer capable of making any purchase on the rough edges of the enlarged slot. The net result is the piece will simply fall back out again. We now take into consideration that the replica part is of little value compared to an original piece. In addition to that, the pegs that would normally hold it in place are now useless when attempting to return the piece to the figure due to the damaged slot into which it is supposed to sit. In this regard, for the method that will be employed here, these pegs will get in the way now and they will have to be removed.

                                Before we do that, though, we will need to make a custom mounting plate that will be inserted into the back of the figure. To do so is easy. All you need to do is find an old DVD case and cut the necesary piece out of it. Old DVD cases are a great source of material for fixing many of the problems these old figures can exhibit. Among the issues you can address and repair with an old DVD case include:

                                - Returning a severed head securely to the figure.
                                - Fixing a severed tail securely to the figure.
                                - Prevent arms from collapsing into a figure that has all of its internal shoulder pins broken.
                                - Fix a shoulder spike onto the figure's back securely.

                                Old DVD cases are easy to come by and easy to cut with a sharp pair of scissors. The extracted material is easy to work with and shape to your needs - including the drilling of necessary holes - and strong enough to make the necessary repairs that will securely keep a piece permanently in place.

                                The process of making a custom mounting plate is simple. First, drill a pair of holes directly into the old DVD case. The holes should be about 10mm apart. Then cut around the holes to fashion a shape that will fit inside the rear torso half right behind the slot, keeping the holes at the center of the piece. This piece of plastic will need to be about 30mm across. Not big at all so you have ample room on a DVD case to extract it. You'll also need a pair of screws (about an inch long, preferably with dome heads) to complete this repair.



                                Old DVD cases are perfect for extracting necessary materials for crafting much needed improvised mounting plates in these figures where previous
                                securing systems have failed. I have mutilated and destroyed more DVD cases for such goals than I care to think about. Far too much fun!


                                Now, let's mount that repro crest. To do so, we'll address the removal of the pegs, which is an easy process. Just trim them off with a sharp tool, knife whatever it takes to remove them. Make the trimmings flush to the base of the replica piece. You can sand back the surface until it's relatively flat if you need to. It doesn't have to be perfect. You will then have an adequate surface to drill a pair of holes in the back of the piece. Use your previously made mounting plate to match and mark where a pair of holes can be drilled. Using the mounting plate as a template will help to match up the correct location where to drill the holes for the screws so craft the mounting plate first.



                                With both pegs removed from the facsimile piece, 2 pairs of matching holes are drilled into it and the improvised mounting plate. See? No one's
                                crying about a repro piece getting the crap tortured out of it and mutilated for a greater cause - just don't do this to an original piece. Please.*


                                You can probably see where this process is going but for the sake of documenting the whole lot I'll detail it for you. Place both screws into the custom made mounting plate and seat it inside the rear of the torso half behind the slot. Add the crest to the outside of the figure and drive the screws through to connect the crest to the torso. Easy, huh. Do not over-tighten the screws. You may damage the figure more. Remember, these figures are over 35 years old now and the area around the slot has already proven to be susceptible to breakage! There's also another reason why you would want to leave the screws half a turn away from being tight at all. When new, this piece always has some play and movement on the the back of the figure. They were never tight to start with. You can emulate this innate looseness of an original figure by simply not fully tightening these screws to their fullest.



                                The screws and plate sitting inside the rear torso half are now securing the crest in place with confidence.*


                                Once the piece is screwed on to the back of the figure through the slot, you can reassemble the whole lot.



                                Douglas Adams is now reassembled and the crest is complete. It looks great and you wouldn't know that the item wasn't an original piece. Not that I
                                advocate deceiving anyone. For me, it's a matter of completing the figure, not abusing it.


                                Depending on the quality of the facsimile piece being used, the finish is excellent and secure. You can also adequately emulate the tactile authenticity of the innate looseness of the figure by not fully tightening it in place.

                                Once again, no glue is used. Always avoid using glue if you possibly can. Also of importance, other than the addition of a replica lost part, no changes have been made directly to the figure to alter it's condition in order to achieve it becoming 'feature complete'.

                                -Windebieste.

                                *I actually forgot to take photos of this stage of the restoration on this particular figure so these 2 photos are from a previous restoration I did months ago. The process used on Douglas Adams was exactly the same.

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