My husband and I decided to make the plunge and start working on our first custom. We purchased some Super Sculpey and started practicing with it, making some crude muscles on junk body parts and all. Well when we went to boil it the sculpey hardened up but would not adhere to the part. Is there something we missed, does the surface need to be roughed up chemical cleaning ect. Or does it just need to totally encircle the part to form a "shell" so it can't fall off. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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super sculpey question
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You can use an oven. Just keep the heat way down, around 175 to 200 degs, and bake the item for shorter periods of time. What you'll end up doing is baking a part 3 or 4 times, 1 min and a half to 2 min at a time before the Sculpty achieves the hardness you want.Comment
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Throw the Sculpty in the trash. It doesn't hold up over time. It becomes brittle and will crack.
I only use magic sculpt. The BEST stuff in the world. Air dries with a 4 hour working time. Becomes hard will hold up over time. Try it and you too will come to love it. The Compleat Sculptor, Inc.
BobComment
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Hmmmm....
Super Sculpey has NO adhere-ability. You can make parts, harden 'em up, and glue them on if you want. I use S.Sculpey for the base of a lot of my heads, but it doesn't hold detail so well, and I find it hard to use. Epoxt putty is a LOT better for sculpting, AND it sticks. (When using it keep a dish of water handy to dip your fingers in. Epoxy putty doesn't stick to water.)
If you're modifying original heads you'll have to glue the parts on after they've hardened. Mold 'em on the head and when dry (epoxy or Sculpey) they'll fall right off. Use superglue to reattach.
Don C.Comment
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But the oven will melt your mego body part.
Throw the Sculpty in the trash. It doesn't hold up over time. It becomes brittle and will crack.
I only use magic sculpt. The BEST stuff in the world. Air dries with a 4 hour working time. Becomes hard will hold up over time. Try it and you too will come to love it. The Compleat Sculptor, Inc.
Bob
I've used the "low oven" method plenty of time without Mego parts melting. Also, I'm making molds of modified parts so I don't worry about the modified part lasting.Comment
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So, if you're modifying/patching a resin head & don't want to recast it, you should be using epoxy putty?WANTED: Dick Grayson SI trousers; gray AJ Mustang horse; vintage RC Batman (Bruce Wayne) head; minty Wolfman tights; mint Black Knight sword; minty Launcelot boots; Lion Rock (pale) Dracula & Mummy heads; Lion Rock Franky squared boots; Wayne Foundation blue furniture; Flash Gordon/Ming (10") unbroken holsters; CHiPs gloved arms; POTA T2 tan body; CTVT/vintage Friar Tuck robes, BBP TZ Burgess Meredith glasses.Comment
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>if you're modifying/patching a resin head & don't want to recast it, you should be using epoxy putty?
Yup! It'll stick real good. My fave epoxy is the Tamiya quick-set stuff: it's very soft, easy to use, and dries in a few hours.
Don C.Comment
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This is a great tutorial that will answer a lot of questions about Sculpey - the most useful thing to take in my opinion is the blending recipe...
Smellybugs Maquette Tutorial completed! - ConceptArt.org Forums
I would only use Sculpey these days for something I intended to recast in plastic (though now I have switched over mostly to wax) - but a lot of jobs I had to do were quick turn-around and not intended for long-term use so sculpey worked in a pinch (especially if I didn't have 24 hours between sculpting phases for epoxy to cure). For someone just starting out sculpey can be tricky because of the heating dynamics for matching parts up, also the mild tendency for sculpey to smooth out or shrink when baking, but overall I found it to be very forgiving.
When using epoxy I second the recommendation of Magic-Sculp also, it's good stuff.Comment
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