First Time Customizer Paint Question

[gummi]

Hello everyone. I'm assembling the parts for my first custom figure, The Punisher, and have a question about paints for the head. I've been researching the different brands of acrylic, and there is a lot of debate regarding craft store vs. model specific paints. I was initially going to use Delta Ceramcoat from Hobby Lobby, but after reading up a bit more, I'm thinking of paying a few extra bucks for some Vallejo Game Color paints, which seem to be highly regarded. I know that this isn't an intricate model that I'll be painting, but do you think it would be worth it to spring for the higher end paints? I've done several searches here but didn't find much on the subject, so I'd love to hear any input you all have. Thanks for looking.

[Apjac Corny]

I personally would spring for the higher end paints. The cheaper craft store paints seem a bit translucent to me and don't cover as well. I like to use a mix of Testors model master acrylic and Tamiya paints. Both clean up with water or alcohol.

I tried the craft store paint on the kids school projects and became so frustrated that I just ended up using my own paints so the solar system or whatever we were working on looked half decent.

I've used Testors and Tamiya paints for years on my aircraft, tanks and figure models. I saw no reason to change once I started customizing Megos.

I also like to use an airbrush to apply my base coats. Less brushing means less brush strokes.

I also like to use a good primer on my heads. Tamiya grey primer is my primer of choice. Tamiya spray paint is hands down the best out there. It's expensive but worth it in my opinion.

After you are finished painting, a few coats of Krylon matte finish will even things out and even hide some brush strokes.

[gummi]

Adequate coverage without getting too thick was my main concern with the craft store paints. I've read they don't dilute as effectively as the higher end paints due to a lower pigment ratio. Thanks for the great tips Apjac Corny. Keep them coming, I need all the help I can get.

[Apjac Corny]

There is something up with the pigment ratio. I did an Addar General Aldo years ago with Apple Barrel brand paints it took forever to build up the purple on the uniform with an airbrush.

I never tried them but I hear the Vallejo paints are awesome and offer a huge palette from what I can see in the hobby shop.

[PNGwynne]

This is a useful thread. I've had problems as well with the coverage of craft acrylics. It seems to depend on the brand and color somewhat.

I've worked with Tamiya and Model Master, too, but I'm unfamiliar with Vallejo.

[BlackKnight]

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Painting-Modelling

[jessica]

Higher quality paints are great but in a pinch $1 cheap acrylics can work. Thin them down though and work in layers, dry inbetween. You can get 15 plus layers of paint and it should not looked glopped on if you have thinned them enough.

[comicmike]

Higher quality paints are great but in a pinch $1 cheap acrylics can work. Thin them down though and work in layers, dry inbetween. You can get 15 plus layers of paint and it should not looked glopped on if you have thinned them enough.

Agreed. A hairdryer (on low) is your best friend when applying the layers, so the paint dries quickly (& often, more evenly)

[gummi]

Thanks for all the tips everyone.

[daz71]

humbrol acrylics are the best i've used so far.

[Boywonder0]

I personally would spring for the higher end paints. The cheaper craft store paints seem a bit translucent to me and don't cover as well. I like to use a mix of Testors model master acrylic and Tamiya paints. Both clean up with water or alcohol.

I tried the craft store paint on the kids school projects and became so frustrated that I just ended up using my own paints so the solar system or whatever we were working on looked half decent.

I've used Testors and Tamiya paints for years on my aircraft, tanks and figure models. I saw no reason to change once I started customizing Megos.

I also like to use an airbrush to apply my base coats. Less brushing means less brush strokes.

I also like to use a good primer on my heads. Tamiya grey primer is my primer of choice. Tamiya spray paint is hands down the best out there. It's expensive but worth it in my opinion.

After you are finished painting, a few coats of Krylon matte finish will even things out and even hide some brush strokes.

Thanks for the great lessons!

[thunderbolt]

Higher quality paints are great but in a pinch $1 cheap acrylics can work. Thin them down though and work in layers, dry inbetween. You can get 15 plus layers of paint and it should not looked glopped on if you have thinned them enough.

this, cheap paints work for me like a champ, usually thinned down a bit and several coats.

[Apjac Corny]

this, cheap paints work for me like a champ, usually thinned down a bit and several coats.

I agree that they do have some advantages such as, price, color selection & availability. But for a beginner they can be somewhat frustrating to use, I'm seeing that with my niece at the moment and her face painting projects. You can do good work with them, I have in the past but if you are just starting out I feel you will get better results with better paint.

Here are some figure kits I did exclusively with Apple Barrel cheapo paints a few years ago...




I really think a simple, single action airbrush is a good investment towards creating a good finish. I spray all my base colors with one. I spray my base flesh color, roughly mask off the painted face after drying with tape, spray the hair, cowl, etc. I then touch up the over spray with a fine brush. Once every thing is crisp, I hit it with a few coats of Krylon matte finish to seal it. Once dry, you are ready to paint the eyes. Since your base coat is sealed with the Krylon, if you make any mistakes on the eyes you can wipe away the paint with a bit of water or alcohol on a Q-tip without ruining your base coat.

If you don't have an airbrush, Tamiya sells and acrylic lacquer base flesh color (TS77 flat flesh, I think) that would work really well with this method.

It's lacquer, so you can paint over it with enamel or acrylic without the paint reacting with it and messing up your base coat. Although I would still seal it with Krylon as a precaution.

Flat colors also lay down better when brushing than gloss. You always don't have a choice with craft store paints.

[gummi]

I checked out the work of all the customizers that posted here. You all have some skills! I made my first attempt at painting my resin Punisher head last night with less than stellar results. I've been reading a lot of tutorials, as well as the advice posted here, and there are some that don't use primer on their resin heads. I didn't have any primer handy, so I decided to try it without. Big mistake, the paint simply didn't want to stick. I have since stripped and primed the head, and now I'm waiting on the Tamiya flat flesh recommended by Apjac Corny. You'll never notice brush strokes in the hair, but I want to get as smooth a base coat of flesh that I can without an air brush. Thanks again for all the comments and pm's here. It has been extremely helpful.

[Apjac Corny]

What kind of primer did you use? The Tamiya flesh is lacquer based and you really can't spray it over an enamel based primer like a Rustoleum. It may work but it could cause the paint to craze. Try some light coats. Tamiya spray paints can be used without primer as well. Just make sure the head is clean and free of residue.

Good luck!